In spite of the fact that many marine observers are aware that sea water has a remarkable foaming capacity, there has not been any scientific study of this subject. However, the foaming capacity may be of considerable importance in oceanography. For instance, there must be an intimate relation between the Beaufort scale and the foaming of sea water, since there is no doubt that aspects of white…
The analytical study of gravity waves of finite height which are periodic and move without change in shape in an ideal irrotational fluid is a subject which has occupied the attention of physicists and mathematicians ever since Stokes published his classic paper entitled “On the Theory of Oscillatory Waves” in 1847.
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